Teonanacatl.org

Aqui discutimos micologia amadora e enteogenia.

Cadastre-se para virar um membro da comunidade! Após seu cadastro, você poderá participar deste site adicionando seus próprios tópicos e postagens.

  • Por favor, leia com atenção as Regras e o Termo de Responsabilidade do Fórum. Ambos lhe ajudarão a entender o que esperamos em termos de conduta no Fórum e também o posicionamento legal do mesmo.

Substratos experimentais para clonagem

Mortandello

O tal do mortan
Cultivador confiável
01/11/2005
7,008
98
Mauá - ABC - SP
Fita adesiva pega mosca -
estou acompanhando uma thread no mycotopia sobre o uso de fita pega moscas como substrato seletivo e muito promissor para clonagens...
façam seus testes, façam suas consideraçoes.
em breve eu coloco uma tradução, já estou providenciando a autorizaçao pra traduzir a thread!

fibra de casca de côco -
como ponto inicial ou meio de coleeta de micelio, tenho utilizado ja com alguns sucesso como "provedora de spawn" de micelios vivos. o micelio sobe muito rapidamente sobre a fibra umida, e pode ser picado facilmente em cima de outro meio nutritivo. convém borrfiar agua oxigenada em cima do pedaço de micelio antes de transportar.

Papelão -
experimentos empregando papelao úmido como apoio para bolos já foram feitos, com o micelio ocupando grande parte do papelão. ainda cabe mais pesquisa. pode ser facilmente limpo com agua oxigenada e depois transportado para cultura liquida e bolos para frutificarem.
 
Autorização cedida, o Pai da Tek JAR, do mycotopya autorizou a copia da thread inteira para traduçao. inclusive ficou muito contente em poder ajudar como todos do forum internacional até agora demonstraram ficar.

aí vai, alguem se habilita a traduzir?
I first noticed that a flystrip can colonize when i put one in a tub full of contam and flies (I hate flies).
The flies landed on the flystrip and they must of had spores on there lil feet cause It grew myc everywhere the flies landed with no signs of contam.
That gave me the idea to try out some tissue from the inside of a boomer.
It worked!! The myc grew
So i tried some dried tissue from a dry boomer.
It worked!! The myc grew
So the ultimate test was to use some tissue from the inside of a boomer grow it out and make a nice clone water LC.
This pic was posted in order to show a friend it indeed does work.

So heres how I do it.
Get a flystrip . (I like the "white" kind of flystrip) Im using a brown one for a better photo.
Cut a 2x2 square of flystrip and Toss on whatever you want to clone.
I put the flystrip on a piece of cardboard held down by a tack.
Put flystrip with clone "whatever" in a zip lock or a container with lid. I spray the lid/bag like when taking a print
Put into incubator at 82*
Couple days later you have your clone sample.
The flystrip is very sticky so to get the myc off the strip I use a scapel with some water sprayed on it .
Put clone tissue in LC and there you go.
As far as contams go I havent seen any On the flystrip ever.
Most of the time the myc will grow on the underside of the flystrip.
In the pic above of the fruit i actually tried to get contams by taking tissue out by unwashed hands and in the open. I even dropped it on the floor before putting on the flystrip Nothing but Myc grew.

Quote:
This works for you on a regular basis? How many times have you done this?
Ive been using this method for around 5 months now with no problems thats not to say it cant contam just ive yet to come across one using this

Active ingredients are
Rosin 62%
tack-paper tape 38%

Ill post a pic of the strips I use in a while when camera comes back.

Quote:
Pretty sweet thanks for sharing. Have you tried fruiting from a strip?
Nope yet to try I dont think it would fruit though.

The brand of the "white flystrips I like are Catchmaster scented bug and fly catcher The "white" strips do a lil better than the brown ones (the myc grows faster) there are no listings of ingredients on the white flystrip packaging
this is the brand The white one is on the left the brown to the right. I prefer the "white" ones

Quote:
This is very interesting. What excatly is Rosin? This would be something I would like to try. Nice work mad scientist
A look on wikepedia gives this

Rosin, formerly called colophony or Greek pitch (Pix græca), is a solid form of resin obtained from pines and some other plants, mostly conifers, produced by heating fresh liquid resin to vaporise the volatile liquid terpene components. It is semi-transparent and varies in color from yellow to black. At room temperature it is brittle, but it melts at stove-top temperatures. It chiefly consists of different resin acids, especially abietic acid

Uses

Rosin is an ingredient in printing inks, varnishes, adhesives (glues), medicines, chewing gum, soap, paper sizing, and, in past times, sealing wax.
In industry it is the precursor to the flux used in soldering. The tin-lead solder commonly used in electronics has about 1% rosin as a flux core helping the molten metal flow and making a better connection. It's frequently seen as the burnt or clear residue around new soldering.
It is also extensively used for its friction-increasing capacity. Such uses include rosining the bows of stringed instruments such as violins or cellos to produce sound. For this purpose, extra substances such as gold and silver are sometimes added to the rosin for extra friction and/or highly-disputed "tone improvements". Ballet dancers sometimes rub their shoes in powdered rosin to reduce slipping before going on stage. Bull riders rub rosin on their rope and glove for additional grip. Baseball pitchers and ten-pin bowlers may have a small bag of powdererd rosin nearby, to use on their throwing hand, for better control of the ball.
A mixture of pitch and rosin is used to make a surface against which glass is polished when making optical components such as lenses.
In pharmaceuticals, it forms an ingredient in several plasters and ointments.
It is also added in small quantities to traditional linseed oil/sand gap fillers, used in building work

Production
Rosin is also known as colophony or colophonia resina from its origin in Colophon, an ancient Ionic city. It is the resinous constituent of the oleo-resin exuded by various species of pine, known in commerce as crude turpentine. The separation of the oleo-resin into the essential oil-spirit of turpentine and common rosin is effected by distillation in large copper stills. The essential oil is carried off at a temperature of between 100° and 160° C, leaving fluid rosin, which is run off through a tap at the bottom of the still, and purified by passing through straining wadding. Rosin varies in color, according to the age of the tree from whence the turpentine is drawn and the amount of heat applied in distillation, from an opaque almost pitchy black substance through grades of brown and yellow to an almost perfectly transparent colorless glassy mass. The commercial grades are numerous, ranging by letters from A, the darkest, to N, extra pale, superior to which are W, window glass, and WW, water white varieties, the latter having about three times the value of the common qualities.
On a large scale, it is treated by destructive distillation for the production of rosin spirit, pinoline and rosin oil. The last enters into the composition of some of the solid lubricating greases, and is also used as an adulterant of other oils.
Though types of rosin may vary, there is no difference in quality. The types of rosin used in the playing of string instruments depends entirely on the preference of the player. The price varies according to how hard it is to procure the particular type.

Properties

Rosin is a brittle and friable, with a faint piny odor; the melting-point varies with different specimens, some being semi-fluid at the temperature of boiling water, while others melt at 100°C to 120°C. It is very flammable, burning with a smoky flame, so care should be taken when melting it. It is soluble in alcohol, ether, benzene and chloroform. Rosin consists mainly of abietic acid, and combines with caustic alkalis to form salts (rosinates or pinates) that are known as rosin soaps. In addition to its extensive use in soap making, rosin is largely employed in making inferior varnishes, sealing-wax and various adhesives. It is also used for preparing shoemakers' wax, as a flux for soldering metals, for pitching lager beer casks, for rosining the bows of musical instruments and numerous minor purposes.
Prolonged exposure to rosin fumes released during soldering can cause occupational asthma (formerly called colophony disease [1] in this context) in sensitive individuals, although it is not known which component of the fumes causes the problem. [2]

sources

The chief region of rosin production is southern China, such as Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian, Yunnan and Jiangxi, and Northern part of Vietnam. Chinese rosin is obtained mainly from the turpentine of Masson's Pine Pinus massoniana and Slash Pine P. elliottii.
The South Atlantic and Eastern Gulf states of the United States is also the chief region of production. American rosin is obtained from the turpentine of Longleaf Pine Pinus palustris and Loblolly Pine P. taeda. In Mexico, most of the rosin is derived from live tapping (gum rosin) of several species of pine trees, but mostly P. oocarpa, P. leiophylla, P. michoacana and P. montezumae. Most production is concentrated in the west-central state of Michoacán.
The main source of supply in Europe is the French district of Les Landes in the departments of Gironde and Landes, where the Maritime Pine P. pinaster is extensively cultivated. In the north of Europe rosin is obtained from the Scots Pine P. sylvestris, and throughout European countries local supplies are obtained from other species of pine, with Aleppo Pine P. halepensis being particularly important in the Mediterranean region.

Quote:
How are you storing the specimen?
So far Ive kept them in a TiT


Quote:
has the myc begun to sector at all?
I noticed that rosin is soluble in alcohol. might be a nice way to fill a petri dish. a cold pour similar to agar then let the alcohol evaporate.
great discovery!!!
I was thinking of trying isolation work. Maybe try to swipe the strip across a glass caserole dish and use it like that.
On the "white" Flystrips there was sectoring .The pic shows a piece of brown/red strip I used that only to get a pic of the process. The "white" strips are the best to use and if planning to try Id recommend the "white" ones.
Im unsure of the "ingredients" of the "white" strips this brand
http://www.catchmaster.com/Fly Ribbon.html
The brown ones work but the white ones are far superior.


I just did a print scraping onto one this morning the pic is not very good. Should be some good growth in 5-8 days then ill try to get a decent pic of.

I think its more toward the adhesive than the Rosin that is beneficial
I say that because the myc grew faster and better on the white ones.
And although im not 100% I dont think the white ones have Rosin in them. I emailed the company (giving praise and asking whats in there flystrips that make them work so well) With no reply yet. LOL
Isolation,sectoring all that is new to me I simply cloned then transfered to an LC using this method but spores do germ on it so...
Take it and run it yours
I sent some out to Hippie3 this mornin
P.S. I think that tape of Invitros wil germinate.

conforme for evoluindo lá eu vou atualizando aqui :) [] ´s
 
primeiro post traduzido:

Eu percebí que uma "fita pega moscas" (flystrip) pode colonizar, no momento que coloquei uma Flystrip em um tubo cheio de contaminantes e moscas (eu odeio moscas :D) .
As moscas pousaram na Flystrip e elas deviam ter esporos nos seus pequenos pés, pois cresceu micélio em todo lugar onde as moscas pousaram, e sem sinais de contaminantes.
Isso me deu a idéia de tentar algum tecido do interior de um boomer (queporraéumboomereunaosei).
E funcionou!!! O micélio cresceu!
Então eu tentei algums tecidos secos de um boomer seco.
E funcionou!!! O micélio cresceu! (denovo :) )
Então, o teste extremo seria usar algum tecido de dentro de um boomer, crescê-lo e fazer um bom clone-dágua LC (Clone Water LC.)
Esta foto foi postada a fim de mostrar um amigo que isso realmente funciona:


http://forums.mycotopia.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=36471&d=1161089608

Então, aqui vai como eu fiz:
Compre uma Flystrip (fita pega moscas), (eu gosto dos tipos "brancos" de Flystrips). Eu estou usando uma marrom para uma foto melhor.
Corte um quadrado 2x2 da Flystrip e jogue no que você quiser clonar.
Eu coloco a Flystrip em um pedaço de papelão mantido preso por aderência/pressão.
Coloque a Flystrip com o clone "seja lá qual for" em um ZipLock ou num pote com tampa. Eu dou uma "sprayada" na ziplock ou no pote como quando eu tiro um print (carimbo).
Coloque num incubador à 82*
Algums dias depois você terá um exemplar de um clone :).

A Flystrip é bem pegajosa, então para tirar o micélio da fita, eu uso uma espátula com um pouco de água "sprayada" nela.
Coloque o tecido do clone no LC e está pronto.
Apesar de saber que os contaminantes vêm, eu nunca ví nenhum na Flystrip.
Na maioria das vezes, o micélio irá crescer na parte de baixo da fita.
Na foto, abaixo da frutificação eu atualmente tentei colocar contaminantes pegando tecidos com as mãos e em lugar aberto. Eu até joguei no chão antes de colocar na Flystrip, mas nada além de micélio cresceu. :):):)
 
Opa, lá vai o segundo comentário:

Mycotopia disse:
Isso funciona para você de uma maneira regular? Quantas vezes você fez isso?

Eu tenho usado este método por cerca de 5 meses sem problemas.
Isso não significa que não possa contaminar, mas eu ainda não vi uma contaminação utilizando esta técnica (em minhas experiências).

Os ingredientes ativos são:

Resina 62%
Fita crepe 38%

Eu postarei uma foto das tiras que eu uso daqui a pouco quando a minha câmera voltar.


Mycotopia disse:
Bem legal cara, obrigado por compartilhar! Você tentou frutificar usando a fita (Flystrap)?

Não, ainda falta tentar, mas de qualquer jeito eu não acho que frutificaria.




Desculpem por eventuais erros!
 
As marcas da "fita pega moscas" do tipo branco que eu gosto são Catchmaster scented bug e FlyCatcher (ambas americanas, não se encontram no Brasil).
As fitas Brancas são um pouco melhores do que as marrons (o micélio cresce mais rápido.)

A seguir comentários sobre fotos anexadas no Mycotopia:
Não têm nenhuma lista dos ingredientes na Fita pega moscas branca.

Essa é a marca dela:

(foto aqui)

A fita branca está do lado esquerdo e a marrom no lado direito (eu prefiro as brancas):

(foto aqui)

Alienardo, caso você possa disponibilizar as fotos, seria de bom agrado para o tópico. :D
Abração!


Mycotopia disse:
Isso é muito interessante! O que exatamente é a resina? Isso seria algo que eu gostaria de tentar.
Bom trabalho, cientista maluco :D

Uma olhada no Wikipedia e veio isso: https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resina
 
Última edição por um moderador:
Back
Top